Well today I picked up an e-boost2 and in the mail came a race radiator with a spal 1250 fan.

I'll post pics tonight, and also do a write up on the E-boost2 in the archives.

I know cjw got a present too yesterday...

cool, are you going to boost really soon then?

Making arrangements too. I've asked a friend for help, and am trying to work out arangements with him

There are a few things I can't do by myself, I can do them, but it will be a shitty job. So thats why I've asked for the help.

I have pretty much everything, but I can't find where I packed a few things : v-band flanges, gaskets.. stuff like that. Gaskets I'm not worried about, but those v-band flanges are expensive.

The e-boost2 new cost : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TurboSmart-...sspagenameZWDVW

bling bling

it does shitloads though. The guy I bought it from has a 6xx whp civic , I got to see it. Was pretty bad ass. When I left i was thinking, man thats bad ass. I bet the tq sucked...woa and behold it 408 tq

Very nice G-red

Yea, if anyone read that....I picked up a roush turbo manifold, turbonetics t3/td04, and the corresponding o2 housing. Fit for a 35/38mm external gate.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-T3-T04...QsspagenmeZWDVW

Very nice, I thought you were already boosted?

no , but I'm working on it.

My car is a mess. I need to get two fenders and a front bumper put on.

my poor baby.

but I'm thinking of doing a black/yellow theme .. not sure yet.

black and yellow done right would look wicked on your car. i would do it, but thats me.

Damn, those rims are totally B.A. on there. What happened to the fenders? Get in a little fender bender? tah he he he....... Those are some expensive parts you ordered. Its going to look good and be fast when its done.

Had the rims for awhile lol atleast a yr and a half...

yes very expensive but I think all together between the eboost and radiator I have maybe 370 into both of them.

I think all together into my turbo kit, I have around 2000-2500. I'm trying to do it clean, very clean and useable.

I have a few more misc parts to get, then install it and see what I'm missing.. then run it for a few hundred miles..and check for errors/leaks.. then after that I'm yankin the motor for some pistons/rods..and tuning time. I want boost before snow/cold but I want the built block by spring time.

garage got emptied today, 55 is going in , then the zx2 to follow. I'll put the zx2 next to the 55 , if melissa needs in..I'll just put the zx2 alittle more foward..should be able to get all 3 in with keeping the shelves and stuff I have.

the bent fenders and no bumper are front hitting a semi tire on the highway.

It destroyed the front bumper, 2 fenders, headlights, header panel, and bent in the radiator support about 2 inches. It was coming right at me, surprised nothing else happened. If was completely stock, it would have done the same, it was a hard hit.

I have a bumper, but no fenders yet. Might put the kit on then fix the body when i pull the motor.

Wow, that would suck! Just cruising on the interstate and a huge semi losing its tire/tread and hitting it head on. I would be so pissed. Or just having the damn thing sitting on the road and not seeing it.

Sounds like you have one heck of a project waiting for yah. Hopefully it all comes out well for you. =)

more parts:

no ones likes my fpr :'(

heres what it is

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?...b=1&prod=12

can't wait to go return style!

btw the next picture I take of a aftermarket part will be sex

Very nice!

won some pistons on ebay, this is what I was going to do to them anyways, but I got them for about 600 cheaper then doing myself.
The wrist pin is titanium from what I gathered off the site the guy purchased them from.

Pistons: 469.00
swain coatings: Gold Coat on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt ……............... $52.50 each
wrist pin: I dont know, but titanium isn't cheap


This is the standard Factory Blurb about the pistons from Probe.

8.2:1 Pistons for .020 over Standard Zetec Bore.

•Forged from premium 2618 aluminum alloy

•CNC Machined side relief with lower support band provides optimal strength for extreme horsepower applications.

•CNC Diamond turned skirts with reduced cylinder contact profiles provide less friction for increased horsepower

•Forced Pin Oiler for increased wrist pin lubrication

•Sold with rings

•40-51 grams lighter than other brands.


This is a one of a kind piston set for any Ford Zetec powered car. They started life as a set of Probe Industries Forged aluminum Pistons Made for Focus Central. They were reworked to the Following specs by Ted's Automotive Machine Shop in Honolulu, HI.

The piston crowns were de-burred, cleaned up, and polished.

The piston set was then balanced to within .25 gram.

After the machine work the pistons were sent to Swain Technologies where the piston crowns were coated with Gold Coat Ceramic Thermal Barrier and the skirts were coated with PC-9™ Solid Film Lubricant.

The wrist pins provided by Probe were the bare minimum for High HP forced induction applications so a set of 90 gram C787 .150 side wall wrist pins were custom ordered from Precision Products Performance Center and then sent to Anatech Ltd. to be coated in casidiam.

Nice. Gonna be some pimp motor man

Just curious, why would you want titanium wrist pins? Titanium is very flexible ... seems like it could cause piston clapping at high RPM's.

the company that made the wrist pin:

http://www.pppcenter.com/

says at the bottom: Click here for sizing information on the latest Titanium Wrist Pins

Precision Products Performance Center's Titanium Pins got off to a fast start in 2000. There were 2600 titanium wrist pins in the hands off engine builders by August. We are still finding new applications and will continue to offer an increasing number of sizes.

Our customers are having continued success in many different racing venues and we continue to improve the product. The strength of the titanium wrist pin has been demonstrated in Pro-Stock drag racing cars and trucks and its endurance in high performance oval track stock cars and trucks. A few sets (70 grams a pin) can even be found in late model stock cars

http://www.tedsmachine.com/
http://www.swaintech.com/
http://www.casidiam.com/ <--- looks interesting

overall I think they're pretty bad ass, can't wait to push 300+whp on them.

My turbo is probally good til 400 whp, I'm not very good at reading turbo charts...but I know its been boost to 20psi/350whp on a zetec, with the lower compression I'll probally dyno around 310ish on the same psi.

Sweet man, looking good. There was a turbo ZX2 running around Import Faceoff, not sure if he's on here or not. But it sounded good.

thanks, can't wait to get boosted. Project is coming together..nicely.

what color was the turbo zx2?

I know of a few that run around here, none on this site.. and none that really did a decent job.

Good news is bryan is probally going to go turbo, and CJW is working on it as well.

followers

From what I remember, it was black and looked pretty much stock except for the FMIC.

That may be the guy who grenaded the motor and I bought the turbo and mani. How long ago was this?

Import Faceoff was Sept 2 of this year. So, a month ago.

prolly not the guy

Rods:

set of customized Eagle ESP H-beam rods with ARP 12 point rod bolts for any model Ford Focus, Contour, Escort ZX2, or Mercury Cougar with a Zetec engine.

These rods were taken to Ted’s Machine shop in Honolulu, HI where they were balanced to within .25 gram of each other (they come from eagle about 1 gram apart from heaviest to lightest). They were then sent to Swain Technologies where they were coated in an oil shedding coating (it keeps down reciprocating wieght and reduces the oil cloud in the windage area; it's also why they are gray).

Here is the Factory Blurb about these rods. Note these rods have ARP 2000 bolts.

Eagle "ESP" H Beam Connecting Rods Feature:
First connecting rod manufacturer to machine on the state-of-the-art Sunnen Krossgrinding™ System to hold extremely tight tolerances! Center to center length +/- .001 Big End Barrel / Bellmouthing +/- .0002 Big End Bore +/- .0002 -- Pin end bore +/- .0002
Weight savings between 30-70 grams (depending on rod length).
3-D Design offers the advantages of reduced weight without sacrificing any of our original rod's strength, offering maximum strength to weight ratio.
2-Piece forging for increased strength.
Ready to run, installation instruction and bolt lubricant included.
ARP 7/16" 8740 Capscrew bolts standard (190,000 psi) unless otherwise noted. Optional ARP 2000 (230,000 psi) and ARP L-19 (265,000 psi) bolts for extreme horsepower applications. L-19 bolts are recommended for small block engines exceeding 700 horsepower and big block engines exceeding 850 horsepower.
Silicon bronze bushings for floating piston pins.
Multi-stage heat treated.
Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram.
Certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities.
Each forging is X-rayed, sonic tested and magnafluxed to insure quality.
All surfaces are 100% machined.
Shot peened to stress relieve the metal.
Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, maintaining big end bore size and eliminating cap walk.
Eagle "ESP" Connecting Rods provide the strength and durability required in unlimited engines at a sportman rod price.
Forged in China.
Sized and finished in the United States.

Arp's head and main studs

251-4702
151-5404

In the mail!

the ebay seller so far has been spectacular for such expensive items. He has been very responsive and even gave me some money back on shipping. AFTER i had sent him it all.

Nice to hear he's not out to screw ya

delivery date monday w00t w00t

also I sent 67 for shipping, he sent 35 back!

thats pretty good.

sweet deal man

I will be starting on my turbo very soon

awesome. So it looks like I'm going to build a block and the turbo kit at the same time.
Since that is going to happen, I can build most of it without the car there at your place.
I do need to know if you have time to help, if not I need to plan for it ($$$)

I need to still get alot of parts, so nothing soon. I need to order end caps, these have to be line honed with the block.
End caps are 250-350 depends which brand I get(out of the two) .

One guy that sales them is turbo tom, He has quoted me :
650 with the end caps, for them to be line honed, the block bored to my specs, cleaned and the deck sqaured. I'm going to ask him how much more to just install my pistons/rods/bearings and arp's on the short block. He does mainly zetecs, and has a 700 whp focus. I've heard numerous good things about him, but I have also heard one negetive. And that was his shipping back sucks (a short block was cardboard boxed) , its hear say and not sure the truth to it, and if there is..if he no longer does that.

I do have to send him my block, if he is overall cheaper.. I might crate my block greyhound so he sends it back that way.

I'd really like to learn how to do it myself, but I know that NO ONE has any free time..so that puts a crunch.

I can help on your stuff too.

Take the engine rebuild class at JCCC and do it all there with assitance... :)

good idea

got the parts today.

Left to order:
bearings crank/rods
main caps
assembly grease (suggestions on brand)
locktite for the blocks (suggestion on brand once again)

I'm considering selling the rods, I've heard there only good for 400 whp, anything over that they'll snap. Crower are suppose to be way stronger..and could handle nearly anything.

But I can't decide if I'll attempt to go over that. I know I wont for awhile, but say I do later.. then if I remove the rods USED there worth a buck fifty . If I sale them now, I could get what I paid for them or a bit more....

Crowers cost 699 + the oil shedding coat (100 for all 4) and then getting them weighted within each other.

thats a bit of difference in price, around 400+ difference

someone help me choose. I was told to stick it out, there is a few foci guys boosting 48x's whp on eagles, and theres plenty of honda guys over 500 whp with eagles.. so I dont know.

How much did you pay for the eagles?

300 + shipping

new there around 338 I believe, and the coating is 25 per rod, then you have to add the machine shop cost for the weighing..

crowers start at 699 + 100.00 of oil shedding coat + machine shop cost for weighin


:(

out of curiosity do the eagle rods work with stock pistons?

I believe so but I'm not 100% postive.

you would most likely have to have the crank milled to match the worn down stock rods unless you are talking about new ones, even then there might be some milling needed to match and mate the correct clearances, idk.

You don't mill the crank like you are referring to. They balance the crank by removing material in spots thus balancing it. Rods do not really wear out like you are referring to either. They are good or they are broke/bent.

I am talking about the wrist pin connection on the rods. I have heard the foci had wider wrist pin areas. The rods available are made for the focus first and foremost. I cannot confirm the widths though.

I know a good machine shop in Independence if you're interested Jarred. There are a couple shops that say it's the place to go to if you want good quality work. The prices aren't that bad either. My block is in there right now. $68 to clean the block and hone the cylinders. $110 to grind the crank to accept over sized bearing and $115 to put it all back together.

He'll also PnP the head and take it down 56 hundred (11:1) for around $425. $350-375 for the PnP alone.

Cool, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to see who rich and paul use too.. since they're both closer. I'd prefer to find a place as close as possible to home..so im not carrying a block half way across town.

i am interested.

Clyde's Machine Shop
816-461-1164

thanks

Ok so motor and turbo project are going to hold of til about december.

I've talked this over with Melissa, and we think its best to get megasquirt fulling tuned on the n/a current motor.

Reason being a completely new motor, turbo set up and tuning... there could be more issues to go wrong with and it would take forever to find/correct.

So I'll get MS tuned on the n/a set up, make sure it all works properly then pull the motor and send it to the shop.

I'm going to go dyno the car here soon, and then start on the ms.

I have a frim coming, and I'll work on the fuel return set up here soon.

Also I might dyno after MS is set up just for kicks.


Next to get:

Str fuel rail or steeda fuel rail for a focus
Aem wideband or a lc-1 wideband